By Daaman Thandi
With brands like Christian Louboutin, Mattel (yes, Barbie herself), and Zara scrambling for a piece of the Indian market, it seems the global fashion elite have finally realized there's gold at the end of the Diwali rainbow—or, in this case, intricate embroidery and a billion-dollar consumer base. The Indian market isn't just lighting candles; it's lighting up the balance sheets of some of the biggest names in the industry.
Christian Louboutin kicked things off with his largest-ever Diwali Edit—a collection of 150 shoes inspired by Mumbai's "empowered women" (because what says empowerment like a four-figure pair of heels?). Meanwhile, Mattel dressed Barbie in a Rajasthan-inspired lehenga by Anita Dongre. And Zara decided to slow down just enough to collaborate with Indian artist Jayesh Sachdev, releasing a limited-edition capsule collection that screams, "Yes, we care about India! Now, please buy this."
The New found India love is a calculated play, one that's all about cashing in on India's growing market. And with Diwali now the luxury's latest jackpot, the real question is: Are brands celebrating India, or are they just ransacking its cultural closet for all its worth?
The Dior Tipping Point: Fashion's Indian Awakening
The true tipping point in this Diwali gold rush wasn't Louboutin's launch, though. It was last year's Dior Fall 2023 show, set against the iconic Gateway of India. Dior's creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri didn't just nod to India; she leaned in hard, collaborating with the Chanakya School of Embroidery and showcasing 25 different craft techniques, including phulkari, kantha, and mirror work.
Still, while the show may have been a visual feast, it also shone an uncomfortable spotlight on luxury's long, extractive relationship with India. For decades, Indian artisans—karigars—have toiled away in obscurity, creating the intricate embroidery that global brands have happily stamped with "Made in Italy" labels. Dior's show may have celebrated Indian craftsmanship, but it also raised the question: Why are we only seeing Indian culture on the runway when there's a dollar sign attached?
The Invisible Hands Behind the Glitter
For all their talk of celebrating Indian craftsmanship, global luxury brands have long relied on Indian labor to do the heavy lifting—without offering any of the rewards. The truth is, Indian artisans have been the invisible backbone of the fashion world for years. Whether it's Gucci's iconic tiger motifs or Dior's bejeweled handbags, much of this work has been outsourced to Indian karigars, who possess the rare skills needed to create the intricate, labor-intensive designs that grace the world's runways. And yet, these artisans are rarely acknowledged, let alone paid what they're worth.
It's the dirty secret of the luxury industry: For more than three decades, brands have been quietly subcontracting their embroidery work to India while stamping "Made in Italy" on the final product. Why? Because, for many brands, an open association with Indian labor might "tarnish" their carefully cultivated image of exclusivity. India, long perceived as a producer of low-quality products, was seen as a risk to brand equity. Never mind the fact that Indian artisans are often the best in the world, their work dating back to 2500 B.C., when India was known globally for its exquisite textiles.
Rana Plaza: A Reality Check for Luxury's Exploitative Tactics
The Rana Plaza disaster in 2013 exposed the ugly truth behind global fashion's reliance on cheap South Asian labor. Over 1,000 workers died in the factory collapse in Bangladesh, most of them producing garments for Western brands. The tragedy forced some introspection, with the luxury sector vowing to improve working conditions. In India, initiatives like the Utthan Pact were supposed to improve wages and safety standards for artisans. But in practice, very little has changed.
Luxury brands continue to exploit Indian labor, paying artisans pennies for work that sells for thousands. As Sheetal Jain, founder of Luxe Analytics, put it: "It's high time Indian artisans start commanding premium pricing for their impeccable, unique, high-quality artwork. Haute couture houses have long sourced intricate handwork from Indian craftsmen—it's time for India to step into the limelight."
Sole Searching in the Diwali Gold Rush
So here we are in Diwali 2024, with luxury brands clambering over each other to be the first to "celebrate" India. While the glitter of Diwali and the rush of luxury collections are exciting, it's important to recognize the artisans who are behind this craftsmanship.
With collaborations like Dior's and the rise of Indian designers on the global stage—think Gaurav Gupta and Rahul Mishra—it's becoming increasingly clear that Indian artisanship is not just a behind-the-scenes contributor but a driving force in global luxury.
As the global fashion industry continues to embrace India, there's a chance for brands to do it right—by collaborating with local designers, supporting ethical manufacturing practices, and giving credit where it's due.
The real question is, will this newfound love for India translate into real change for the artisans who power these collections? Or is this just another chapter in luxury's long history of cultural appropriation wrapped in a shiny new bow?
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